JAPAN (OSAKA)

March 17th — Spring

We landed in Japan just as spring was starting to show. Narita Airport greeted us in the early morning light. It was my second time here, though the first visit was just a short layover. This time, I was staying for real.

We had gone back and forth between Korea and Japan, but something about Japan drew us in more—maybe its mix of old and new, or how familiar yet different it feels. I packed light: just an empty suitcase and a few jackets, hoping the cooler air might help me relax a bit.

The flight was just over five hours, overnight. We arrived around 7 a.m. local time—one hour ahead of home. At the airport, we took our time figuring out train tickets and passes. It was a little confusing and slower than we expected, but that was okay. Even when things are busy here, there’s a calmness to how everything moves.

When we arrived in Osaka, we made our way through narrow streets to a small Airbnb called Apartment Hotel 11, located between a row of quiet buildings. The space was modest but comfortable, and it quickly felt like a place we could settle into. I was a bit surprised by how much the electronic bidet impressed me—something new, and unexpectedly pleasant.

Osaka had a different kind of warmth compared to other cities. The neighborhoods felt lived-in and familiar, not polished but genuine. Vending machines were everywhere, lined up neatly, each offering a small glimpse into daily life here.

I carried my Ricoh GR III everywhere—hoping to bottle up the city's rhythm in stills.

Here’s what I saw—pieces of Osaka, both ordinary and unforgettable.

Stepped out of our apartment and immediately spotted this sumo statue at DOTON PLAZA. Kept walking and I think we were around the Namba area, surrounded by tons of J-pop billboards. Went a bit further and came across the famous Dotonbori Canal.

We kept seeing Kobe beef signs everywhere—on buildings, menus, even billboards. It felt like the whole city was obsessed with it. But honestly, the prices were kind of wild, so we gave it a pass this time.

Instead, we ended up at this busy little takoyaki stand in Dōtonbori. The place was called Kukuru, with a giant red octopus hanging over the entrance like a mascot. We paid around ¥10,000 for a few things to share, which felt like a lot for street food, but the takoyaki was totally worth it. Hot, gooey inside, with just the right crisp outside.

We visited Ichiran, a ramen spot where you eat in private booths designed for full focus on the food. I chose the spicy broth—delicious, but a bit harsh on my stomach. Thankfully, convenience stores here are stocked with all kinds of indigestion aids. Japan really covers all bases.

Osaka really comes alive at night, with neon signs lighting up every corner. Outside Ganko Sushi, we spotted their signature mascot—a stern-looking “grumpy grandpa” figure that seems to watch over the entrance.

Promoters lined the streets holding signs for Japanese soul food like oden and yakitori, trying to draw people in.

A massive tuna display, the kind often seen outside upscale sushi spots to advertise a tuna-cutting show, where chefs skillfully break down the whole fish in front of a crowd.

And of course, there were even more takoyaki stalls—Osaka’s go-to street food, everywhere you turn.

Frequent visit to 7-eleven for these—soft sandwiches with assorted fillings. 200 yen, maybe 300.a little price for a small, beautiful ritual that held me steady during wandering days in japan.

The next day, we wandered through urban Osaka, taking in the scenery and soaking up the atmosphere—it felt noticeably different from back home in Brunei. There’s a stronger connection to the surroundings here, maybe because we walked so much. In Brunei, we rely heavily on cars, but here, every step felt intentional.

We made our way to Osaka Castle Park—a striking contrast, with centuries-old history nestled among modern buildings. The castle was originally built in 1583, and like many things in Japan, it has endured—destroyed and rebuilt several times, with the most recent restoration after World War II.